Day 11: Hofuf

Our last road trip in Saudi Arabia was to Hofuf in Al Hasa, the world’s largest date palm oasis.  In addition to this natural resource, Al Hasa sits on top of the Ghawar field, the largest onshore field in the world.

(While fresh dates are a rarity in U.S. produce sections, they are standard fare in the Middle East and an essential offering with Arabic coffee and tea.  For an introduction to date varieties and cultivation, see this article in Saudi Aramco World: “Carrying Dates to Hajar.”)

Hofuf was a popular field trip when we were in elementary school.  It was like a walk back in time with a camel/livestock market and a centuries-old, palm thatch-covered suq.  On one such field trip, a couple of little boys in my class decided it would be a good idea to buy some baby goats at the market and bring them back to camp.  We rode back to Dhahran with two baby goats running around the bus.

We immediately noticed the development along the Abqaiq Road, leaving Dhahran.  It used to be nothing but low dunes and sandstone jebels.  There were still a surprising number of bedouin tent encampments in the area near Hofuf, so some things haven’t changed.

We went to the newer camel market first.  Most of the sales transactions and loading of camels by cranes into pickups had occurred before we got there, but the lull in activity gave us the opportunity to ride camels (SR5) and take photos.  Watching the Arabs leaning up against the livestock fences reminded us of Texas cowboys.  This was the Saudi version.  We briefly considered asking them to pose while making the “horns down” sign with their hands.

Next we headed over to the old Turkish fort, Qasr Ibrahim and Al Bai’a House in the old Al Kut district.  The turkish fort was captured from the Ottomans in the middle of the night without a fight. Al Bai’a House is where a treaty was signed uniting the local tribes under Abdul Aziz.  Sadly, the old Suq Al Qaisariyyah burned to the ground a few years ago, but we were happy to see that they are trying to construct a new one in its likeness.  Al Hasa is working hard to develop its own tourist industry, and the old suq was a valuable asset in that regard.

Lunch was in a national park, compliments of the Al Hasa Chamber of Commerce.  When we arrived, the doors to the park reception hall were locked, so a mad scramble ensued to find a park ranger with keys to let us in for lunch.  Our hosts were presented with a memento from the group to thank them for their hospitality.

Speaking of developments in Al Hasa, we need to take this opportunity to point out their campaign to be designated one of the 7 natural wonders of the word under the landscape category.  Al Hasa is currently in the lead!!!  Please visit the link below and vote for Al Hasa, and be sure to pass it along to all of your friends.  We told our hosts we wouldn’t let them down!